First Pick

Woke up at 6:15 this morning. A very cold morning, in the low 50's. It rained last night for about 45 seconds, but by this morning there was no sign of it, the sky was clear. We tried to have a normal morning, a little coffee in bed, and read the newspaper.

At 7:30 we started the first pick of the season. The 'Home Ranch', "Haut Tubee". The Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and two Zinfandel plants around our home. It took about 30 minutes to get the bird netting off. Always a dirty disgusting job. Then about 10 minutes to pick the 150 pounds of grapes we got this year.

Next we're off to Kathy and Millie's to pick the grapes around their house. About 9:30 we should be on our way up to Chaine d'Or to get the 300 pounds or so of grapes into a bin to start turning it into wine. In all about 1/3 of a barrel, or 10 cases or so. We'll combine these grapes with the other small lots and probably end up with about 40 cases of wine from the small lots.

There won't be much processing. It's really not worth hooking up the crusher and pump. We'll dump the grapes in whole cluster and then some lucky person will jump in and smash them up some. Then I'll leave it to start on its way to fermentation. If all goes well we should be done and cleaned up by 1pm.

Second Round of Mailers Out Today

Orders are still coming in from our first round of mailers last week. Demand is just about where I thought it would be so we dropped of the second round of mailers on schedule today.

This round includes offers for three packs with an option to ask for a six pack. Right now it looks like we should be able to fill requests for a six pack if ordering stays on track. I'm guessing that by this time next week we should be down to 3-4 cases left. I'll start to process payments shortly and we should begin shipping to states that have good weather in the second week of October.

We've had about a dozen recent sign ups, and I hope to get those people out a three pack offer next week if ordering stays on track. IT will be tight, but I'm still hoping I can get wine out to everyone who wants it. Maybe not as much as they want, but I should have wine for everyone.

Too Early For 2008?

A few years ago when we started the vineyard management company we averaged 8-10 calls a year about managing or installing vineyards. We'd consult on 1-2 and usually take on one small project every year. That was the most I could handle and that was usually the scope of the projects. A few acres or even a backyard and some advice on growing grapes and making wine.

Each year it grew a little more, and we remained pretty selective on the projects we'd take on. The important thing was to make sure that the projects helped us out in making wine and growing the winery side of the business. Along the way we started to get a reputation among the local winemakers as top quality growers and dedicated farmers.

This past summer I'd say the vineyard business 'tipped over'. It's grown to the point now that it is its own thriving enterprise. Sycamore Creek, Big Basin Vineyards, Windy Oaks and several other wineries have started to recommend us to people thinking of putting in vineyards. We've also started to get calls from landscape architects and even one of the largest commercial construction companies in the area.

So now, even though we're months away from 2008 I'm trying to figure out what projects we'll take on in 2008. There are already people trying to sign us up for next year. There are two large projects pending. One would involve a no-corners cut top of the line 4+ acre vineyard installation project. An amazing south facing hill side ready for us to plant, and grow grapes and make wine. The owners want the very best, top of the line, and they've asked us to do it for them!

We're also mulling over another amazing project. 12 acres of some of the finest old vine Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Santa Cruz Mountains. A 30 year old vineyard that supplied grapes for some of the most legandary wines ever made in the Santa Cruz Mountains. We've been asked to take over management of the vineyard, and most importantly, make the wine from the amazing site.

Now comes the tough part. What project can we take on? Can we do both? And what about all the other calls we'll get in the Spring? I never thought the little vineyard company, "Two Gringos" would grow so large, and take on such huge projects. Hard work, dedication, and commitment to the highest quality, I can't think of any other secrets, but those three things worked!

Harvest Spin

I've been keeping up on postings on line about harvest around the state. One thing seems to be happening already that I'm calling harvest spin.

A few posts ago I wrote about being surprised about early harvesting going on. I was even more surprised to see pictures of these harvests. The grapes just did not look ripe. Green stems and green seeds in the bins. A few old growers joked about 'panic', and those harvesting shot back with some pretty harsh words about people who 'pick by the numbers'.

Now this week I've seen a few of those early pickers start talking about what a great job they did. How now the weather looks cooler, and there is rain on the way (40% chance of 1/4 inch of rain this week) and the harvest is ruined for everyone else. I'll tell you what I think that is....pure spin.

I think those earlier harvesters got nervous with the little heat wave and worried it would not end. They picked when their grapes got in the sugar ranges they wanted because they worried the sugars would climb too high. I also think those grapes were not ripe yet. Now they are trying to make a bad choice, seem like a good one, even if only to themselves.

The weather has turned cool, but it's in the normal range. There is light rain in the forecast, but just a little, and the vineyards will dry out fine afterwards. Now the patient people are talking about a harvest a week or so earlier than 2005 or 2006, with ripe grapes and lower alcohol wine. That sounds like a great combo to me.

First Offer Letters Out

We dropped the first round of offer letters for our fall release in the mail this morning. Our 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Uvas Creek Vineyard is officially released.

I had to cut down the number of people being offered 6 packs this time around to about 90. This first round of mailers went to those allocated a 6 pack. The remaining 170 or so letters have already been completed and we will drop those in the mail next Monday. Those letters will go to everyone allocated a 3 pack.

We expect to start shipping right around October 1st. We are also offering people the opportunity to pick up their wine in person for this release at Chaine d'Or. We'll have the winery open on November 17th as 'Pick Up Day".

The fax machine should start to go off tomorrow night and be going full force on Wednesday. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that we'll be able to get wine to everyone who wants it this time around.

Weekend Update

It's been another busy weekend. My phone actually rings more on the weekends now than during the week. There was a little break Saturday. I had planned on harvesting Syrah and Grenache from the home vineyard, but it's just not where I want it yet, so I was able to sleep in on Saturday for a few hours.

At 11:30 though we had an appointment to visit a new vineyard site. It's about 4 acres in Los Altos Hills that would be planted next year. The site is on a very nice hill with southern exposure. We met with the general contractor and will decide this week if we take the project or not.

Then it was up to the winery. We had a little clean up work to do after the move in and I wanted to get all the barrels marked off and topped up. We had visitors who wanted to ask questions about getting started in the wine business. We had a fun time, and finished up our work after they had gone, getting home by 6pm.

Today Millie and I headed off to the Harrison vineyard to replant three plants and tie up the new little plants. They seem to be doing very well and a few have even reached the cordon wire. Next we drove to the Elandrich vineyard to check on the grapes.

They look amazing. This really looks like it's going to be a great year. The clusters are small, tight, and clean. The colors look great and the flavors are intense already. The Zinfandel tested at 23.1 BRIX and the Merlot at 22.0. It looks like 3 week until we'll harvest the Zin and 4 weeks for the Merlot. That's on track with what we saw at Chaine d'Or on Saturday. I didn't take BRIX levels, but the Cabernet tasted and looked like it was 4-5 weeks away.

That break will be good, because we're spending the afternoon stuffing envelopes with our fall release letters. We're also going to go check out the Almaden Art and Wine festival. I'm not a big fan of Art and Wine festivals, but this one is the closest to our home, and since we're are the only winery in the area, we're going to see if we want to set up next year. The last task for the day will be visiting the annual Friends of the Winemakers meeting at 4PM. Hopefully a good nights sleep and then off to the 'full time' job on Monday!

The First Late Night of the Harvest Season

And it wasn't harvesting.........

Tuesday night we received all our 2006 wines in barrel. They had come from the facility we had them stored at to Chaine d'Or. We decided to move them to make bottling easier in the spring and fall. This way we'll have everything together when it's time to bottle and be able to make bottling decisions based on what's best for the wine and our schedule.

As with most things related to wine making, it was mostly about logistics. Unfortunately the logistics got off to a very rough start. Some how my written instructions to "Call me after Tuesday to set up a delivery time", got translated too "Put the wine on a truck on Tuesday."

So after getting a phone call at 10AM we were able to set up a 4:30 drop off time. That gave us just enough time to rush to the winery and start moving empty barrels around to make room for the full barrels arriving. We finished at 5:10 PM. And then waited and waited and waited and finally at 8:50 PM the truck showed up.

More logistical problems to deal with. Some of the racks were not the right type for our forklift, and other were stacked in a pyramid, which will not work in the winery. So we scrambled and worked and lifted and improvised and racked wine into new barrels and sent Millie out on a dinner run and finally sometime after midnight got everything put in the winery and in its place.

We did manage to take samples from each barrel though and I'll have tasting notes on the wines up shortly and the wines are safe and resting in our new home.

Harvest already?

I was really surprised to read today that many people are already starting harvest. And not just in hot areas, or for early grapes like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. There are actually vineyards in Napa harvesting Cabernet Sauvignon, which should normally be about the last grape to come in.

This seems way too early to me. I'm still several weeks away from having anything ready to pick, and it will likely be the end of September early October before we pick most of our vineyards. Chaine d'Or should be the last, probably around the 15th of October. Early than 2005 or 2006, but still 'normal'.

I wondered as I read the reports if people aren't in a bit of a panic. We've had a string of hot days and sugars have started to climb. The grapes taste good, but I think are still a few weeks away. It reminds me a little of 2003, when we had a heat wave in mid September and a lot of people picked early. Many people I talked with were sorry they did that.

This time of year is the great test of nerves for winemakers and growers. You worry and worry about the grapes getting too ripe, or having late season problems and loosing everything. But you have to be patient, you've got to wait for the right time. It's hard on the guts and the heart, but you've got to do it.

Fall Newsletter

Dear Friends,

So much has happened since the last time we wrote to all of you it's hard to know where to start! It's been a busy few months and a fantastic summer for growing grapes. We're excited with everything that's happened so far this year and excited for the upcoming harvest.
If you have signed up to receive an order form we will be mailing them starting the week of September 10th. We are going to do two waves this year. Those higher on the 'points' list will get their letters first, and the second wave will follow the week of the 17th. This spring there was a flurry of sign ups right after letters went out, so if that happens again, and we have wine left, there will be a final chance offering on September 24th.

We sold out in just about 5 weeks last time, and we think it may be as fast as two weeks this time based on the growth of our mailing list. We are so grateful for the support you've given us!

We expect to start shipping during the last week of October as the weather cools and the harvest activity slows down. Just like before, the order form will contain details on allocations, shipping and ordering. Shipping in particular has some big changes, as we've tried to make it even easier (and lower priced).

Summer News

And what news we have! First, our vineyard management business is booming! We have added a new vineyard in Morgan Hill that will start producing Cabernet Sauvignon in 2009 and a Syrah vineyard in Los Altos Hills that will start producing in 2010. We have several other projects lined up for 2008 and beyond.

All this new work has allowed us to add our first real employee. Our good friend Millie Ottinger is joining us for 20 hours a week starting this fall. Millie is a journeyman carpenter and electrician and loves working in the vineyard. She'll take on the role of Vineyard Construction Foreman and Assistant Vineyard Manager. Her email will be millie@stefaniawine.com. Millie's been helping us out for a few years now in the vineyard and knows exactly how we like to farm our vineyards.

We got the chance to get out and meet many of you this summer on our "Summer Tour 2007." We stopped in Washington, D.C., New York and Chicago. We had such a great time at each event and really loved being able to preview our new wines. We're already looking forward to "Summer Tour 2008"! Well, maybe “Spring Tour” when it’s a little cooler. We are also going to try and get to Dallas this fall or winter since so many of you live in the Dallas area.

Of course the REALLY BIG NEWS we already shared with you is that we're now running Chaine d'Or. Paul started working with Jerry and Anne Anderson a few harvests ago as "Crushman". They've helped us along and taught us so much over the years. This summer Anne and Jerry decided to retire and asked us to take over the vineyard and winery. We are so excited and grateful we can't even begin to tell you. The winery is absolutely state of the art and first class. We'll be releasing the wines we helped on and Jerry and Anne finished, under the "Chaine d'Or" label. Starting with the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon we'll be releasing the wines as Stefania Wine, Chaine d'Or Vineyard.

The winery is located about 25 minutes north of San Jose, and about 20 minutes south of the San Francisco Airport. I know many of you fly into SFO on visits, and now there's no excuse to not stop by for a tour and some tasting. Just let us know in advance and we'll set up a visit for you!

Fall Release

This Fall we'll be releasing our 2005 Uvas Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyard is located on the gravelly banks of Uvas Creek in the southern Santa Cruz Mountains. It lays just outside the approved AVA for Santa Cruz Mountains wines, in the Santa Clara Valley AVA. We're very happy with how this wine has turned out and feedback has been great!

Like our 2005 Syrah this wine is round and well balanced, with really great notes of currant, black cherry, spices, vanilla and cigars. It will need about 20 minutes in the decanter if you open it now. I'm going to tell people to open it now or over the next 5-7 years. We have heard from some of you though that you think the wine has the backbone for much longer aging.

We are also scrambling to offer the 2006 Chaine d'Or Chardonnay in time for the fall. The wine is ready for release, but we don't know if we'll have all the shipping permits in place in the next few weeks. We may be able to offer it only to those of you in California this fall. We will have it in our Spring Release though for sure.

Harvest Update

Right now we're in a mini heat wave, with temperatures in the 90's and great sunshine. It looks like harvest will be a few weeks earlier than 2005 or 2006, both of which were 'late' years. It looks like 2007 will be a 'normal year'. We expect to start picking grapes at home in mid-September. The commercial picks will probably start the first week of October.

We have a lot of grapes coming in this year. We're planning on at least 12 tons, or 6 times more than just two years ago. We should end up making 750 cases. We will be returning to Eaglepoint Ranch for Syrah, and Uvas Creek for Cabernet Sauvignon. We will also be back to Martin Ranch/Harvest Moon for Cabernet Sauvignon and a new addition for 2007, Cabernet Franc. Stefania has wanted to make a Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Franc since we started, and this year we will have the space to try it. We will also be harvesting the Cabernet Sauvignon at Chaine d'Or and Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel from our own vineyards. Finally, Jim Schultze at Windy Oaks, has agreed to sell us some of his fantastic Pinot Noir in 2007. We have been after this Pinot Noir since we started making wine and are excited to get some this year.

Our plan is to make 5 different wines in 2007 plus our Haut Tubee. There will be vineyard designate wines from Eaglepoint Ranch, Uvas Creek and Chaine d'Or. We will also have Santa Cruz Mountains designate Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Plans for 2008

Settling in to Chaine d'Or and getting used to running the winery is our top goal in 2008. We plan on producing about 1200 cases next year. We will have a couple of new vineyard sources next year as we take on some new vineyard projects and older projects start producing fruit. We're going to try and balance all this into making 7-8 different wines going forward, and getting case production to about 3000 total. We'd like to keep our releases to 3-4 wines twice per year.

Upcoming Events

If you would like to come to our annual Harvest Party please send us a note. It looks like it will be Saturday October 13th in our backyard. We'll have our usual grape stomp and pumpkin patch at the party plus lots of great food and wine.

November 10th we'll be hosting a Friends of the Winemakers (FOW) dinner. FOW is a local group dedicated to preserving the history of winemaking in the Santa Cruz Mountains and Santa Clara Valley. Tickets will be $45 and include four courses paired with our wines. Space is very limited. Please contact us if you would like ticket information.

November 17th we will participate in Passport Days in the Santa Cruz Mountains. We'll be open to the public at Chaine d'Or. Paul will be providing barrel tasting for members of the Stefania Wine mailing list. If you stop by please let us know you are on the list for samples of our 2006 wines from barrel and a tour of the winery. Chaine d'Or is open only on Passport Days and Vintner’s Festival days, usually four days per year. We will be open by appointment, exclusively to members of our mailing list. If you would like to plan a visit please call us at 408-242-8598 or email Paul at paul@stefaniawine.com.

Cheers and thank you all for your continued support!

Stefania and Paul

Planes, Trains and Stagecoaches

We're off on our summer tour and it's very likely the next few blogs will just have a tiny bit more to do with travel than wine.

Friday we flew out on Southwest from San Jose to Baltimore. Now I actually like Southwest. I know some people hate it, but to me it's an airline that doesn't pretend it's going to treat you nice, it's honest about the service it offers. A bag of peanuts and a seat that's what you get.

The other airlines pretend like they are going to give you more, but in the end, you get a bag of peanuts and a seat. Plus the latest I've ever been on Southwest is 35 minutes. On Northwest I've only had delays of less than four hours about 25% of the time. SO they get me there, it's on time, and they are honest. Good enough for me.

On this last trip though, wedged in the tiny seat, I started to think of all the transportation I've ever taken and where an airplane ranks. I've never been on a camel, or an elephant, but I have been on a horse and a stagecoach. So a plane is definitely less comfortable than a bus or a train. Then I tried to rank it????

It came in at the stagecoach level. Well kind of. Riding on top of a stage coach is not bad, you can see the bumps coming. Inside a stagecoach though is hot, stuffy, small and bumpy. So that's it. A plane is definitely better than taking a stagecoach. At leas if you have to ride inside the stagecoach.

Beta Testing

Last night we went out to dinner at Sent Sovi in Saratoga. The idea was to try all our wines with some good food before we go out visiting people next week. A 'Beta Test'. I wanted to know how everything was doing before I opened it for other people.

The dinner at Sent Sovi was actually very good and service was wonderful. There was a wild mushroom course in particular that was very good.

We opened four wines. I checked in on the 2005 Syrah since it had been over a month since we'd had it. Doing fine and hitting a good spot now. I also opened the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. It needs 30 minutes in a decanter right now. Not yet ready for release, but I think we knew it would be like that. We're not planning on sending out for a few months still. With the decanter time it showed really well and I think everyone will really enjoy this wine next week as we open it for the first time for people.

We also opened two mystery wines to try out. More news on those two wines coming soon, but we were pretty excited by how they tasted.

The staff at Sent Sovi tasted along with us and were very impressed. They asked us to come back and taste through with the owner and see about scheduling a winemakers dinner for us there sometime soon.

We ended up taking almost 4 hours to work through the wines and the courses and our small test group had a great time. I'm feeling really good about showing the wines next week.

Fall Mailers are Upon Us.

Today I got my first two mailers of the 'Fall'. On July 30th. Fall comes earlier than the Christmas season now, at least if your selling wine.

I understand the desire to get them out early. Beat the rush of other mailers that pile up for people is a big consideration I'm sure. The main thing though I think is to get orders and shipping done and taken care of for small operations. The mailers I got were from Loring Wine Company and Copain.

Both are bigger than us of course, but I know both are all hands on deck during the September and October harvest season. With everyone working in the winery crushing grapes and making wine, there will be no one left to answer emails, fix shipping issues, or process credit cards.

Stefania and I will be the same way. During October we won't have much time to tend to the business side of the business, it will be all about making wine. Our Fall Mailer will go out early too. Probably just another few weeks or right around Labor Day. We won't start shipping until after we've wrapped up harvesting, that way we'll have time to deal with any shipping issues, but the gap between taking orders and shipping is a gap we need to get other things done.

We're not pushing it into July, but I can sure understand why Brian Loring and Wells Guthrie want to.

Last Chance 2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah

Stef and I stopped in last night at Unwined just off Almaden Expwy in South San Jose. http://www.unwinedshop.com/ It's a great little wine bar / shop about 4 miles from our home. They always have interesting flights of wine, nice small tapas style plates of food, and 2-3 tv's to watch sports (or Oprah) on.

We had the "Mendocino White's" flight and the "Unusual Red's" flight and a plate of cheese and salami. All very nice.

Unwined still has 4-5 bottles left of our 2005 Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch. We left them with some after our release party, so that I didn't have to carry an open case back to the storage facility. This is the very last available 2005 Syrah, everything else is gone or on restaurant wine lists. Unwined is selling it at release price of $35, so if you'd like to pick up one more bottle, give them a call at 408-323-WINE.

Los Altos Vineyard Update.

Millie, Stef and I completed construction on the Los Altos vineyard project Sunday morning. It's a small project. Eleven rows, about 175 plants on a 1/4 acre, but when combined with the Elandrich vineyard should make enough fruit for 3-4 barrels of wine in 4-5 years.

We're putting in Syrah on a 5 wire trellis system with 6 x 8 spacing. The plants will go in on Friday and Saturday and we'll finish up a few remaining tasks then. The site is about 500 feet from the old Page Mill Winery site and should be a great spot to grow Syrah.

The project was a little rough starting out. We wanted to start in early May, but the homeowner wasn't ready for us. That put a serious kink in the schedule. We have a little gap in Mid May through Mid June when flowering is going on to do construction on new vineyards. As soon as flowering completes though we have to stop whatever is going on and go 'green prune' and tie up the existing vineyards.

So right after getting in the end posts on this project we had to stop for three weeks as we took care of the other vineyards. Last week we were able to get back out and finish up. Stef should have photos soon.

Burgers and Bordeaux

Today we'll be hosting our 5th annual "Burgers and Bordeaux".

It was an idea 5 years ago to de-mystify wine in general and French wine in particular. Bordeaux was the perfect subject. Many new wine drinkers are afraid to try French wines, or find wine naming in general confusing. We work off a simple theme: We taste wines of each of the five grapes used in Bordeaux; Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot and Malbec. Then we taste blends of those grapes from around the world, including many Bordeaux's.

It gives every one a chance to taste each part of the blend on it's own and see what it brings, and how the sum of parts can be greater than the individual grapes. Many people are afraid to get away from varieties they know, and this is a chance to explore blends. It also is an easy environment to learn in and take some of the fluff away from wine.

The "Burgers" portion of the BBQ plays an important part in that. I hate that people obsess over the "perfect pairing". There is no such thing. Time, place, mood, preperation and a hundred other factors make the interplay of wine and food unique each time you do it. Forget about "perfect", go for "fun". What's more fun than burgers on the Forth of July? The burgers also let people know, it's ok to have wine, even great wine, with any food you'd like.

So we'll relax on this 4th of July with a casual BBQ, good friends, and good wine. No fluff, no pretense, no anxiety. Just the way we like wine.

Two Worlds of Wine

Last week Stef and I were guests at a lovely dinner hosted by a local professional organization. They asked us to pair wines with a three course dinner, including our Syrah, and speak about each pairing.

It was a real fun night and the group was very enthusiastic. They had great questions and treated us like celebrities. We chatted away for several hours after the event was supposed to wrap up. It was the type of nice event we're starting to get more often now where people are so excited to meet the winemaker. I had a blast.

Sunday I was out in the hot sun. Me and Millie and a crew of two helpers. We were digging post holes and setting the end posts for the new vineyard in Los Altos Hills. At one point one of the holes was not aligned right and I picked up a shovel and expanded it out, digging down 3 feet in the rough mix of hard clay and rocks.

This is in a little suburban area, so there was lots of foot traffic (and horse traffic) going by as we worked. A couple people stopped, one to ask directions and one to ask if it was a vineyard we were putting in. As I held the shovel, I thought of the Thursday night event. What a totally different world. The glamour of the wine dinner vs. the business end of a shovel on a hot day. I think I'm lucky though, I enjoy doing both.

Here's what I've seen so far. Although I've followed the situation in other areas I've only talked in detail with growers in my area, and Casey Hartlip at Eaglepoint Ranch in Mendocino. Keep that in mind as the situation can be very different in different parts of the state.
So far 2007 has been the easiest year I've seen since I've started in 2001. There actually have been comparisons to 1997, which was also viewed as easy.
So what does easy mean?
It means that there has been a leisurely pace to vineyard work and no unusual actions needed in the vineyard. At this stage in the growing season you're looking at four main themes:
1. disease pressure - mildew2. potential yields3. green growth or vigor4. water stress and situation for the remainder of the growing season.
1. disease pressure. Mildew pressure has been the lowest I've ever seen. Many have cut back their spraying drastically. Casey didn't do his first spraying until May. Only Bradley Brown at Big Basin Vineyards has told be he's seen any pressure this year, and he zapped it early with oil.
Spraying has also been very easy. 2005 in particular and a lesser amount in 2006 were difficult years. The rain patterns often had us out 2-3 times a week. This year we've been able to stay on an every 2 weeks schedule. You have to spray after each rain if you use organics or time your spraying for dry periods with systemics. In 2005 and 2006 the weather drove us nuts. We'd spray, it would rain, then not give enough gap between rain to get another spray to set. To make matters worse there would be calm periods between storms, which lets Powdery Mildew thrive. It meant a lot of work, and some growers still had Powdery Mildew problems in both years, and black rot problems in 2006. It was a challenge and although the best growers brought in good healthy grapes, it was still a lot of work.
This year we've had rain, gone out and sprayed, the wind kicks up (which helps prevent Powdery Mildew) and then relaxed until the next spraying was needed.
The net result? Healthy flowering, fruit set and cluster size. Potential yields look good, and unless something dramatic happens in the summer, we're not worried about mildews and rots.
2. Potential yields - At this point in the season yields look good. Some plants are throwing 3rd clusters, but not many. Flowering is still underway but set appears good and the plants healthy. Good growers will drop 3rd clusters which tend to not catch up, but every thing was very even this year. Plants flowered and set all together, which leads to even ripeness.
3. Green Growth - Vigor. This was the demon in 2005. The rain patterns lead to excessive growth. That encouraged Powdery Mildew, and meant many growers had to increase their farming labor 25-75%. There was a lot of work to do to bring in healthy grapes and balance vines.
This year the plants have been late, 1-2 weeks, but even and controlled in their growth. I've had to do no shoot thinning or lateral removal before flowering. In 2005 I had to make 2 complete passes through the vineyards.
I've also had very little need to remove excess buds or double shoots. The plants have just been balanced and not needed extra fussing. The lateness is not a concern to anyone I've talked with, or myself. We're not pushing things severely like 1998 or 1999, it just looks like 1-2 weeks later than normal, or about the same as last year.
Although we have only seen one heat spike, our degree days seem fine, and the heat is really needed over the 90 days following flowering. The entire summer is ahead of us, and it is possible we'll have lower alcohol, lower pH wines again in 2007, like 2005 and 2006, but that will play out in July and August. No one is concerned on not getting grapes ripe.
4. Water stress and situation for the remainder of the growing season.
It has been a drought year, with rainfall at 30-50% of normal in many locations. I've turned on my drip systems later than I have in the last few years. In 2005 I had them off all season. Still the amount has been small 1/2 gallon per week and precautionary.
Others are doing the same. No one seems particularly worried, just cautious in getting water in the ground. We've seen no drought stress at this time. If things get really hot this summer it could be a concern. Those on reservoir water are worried that they can make it through a hot summer with the water on hand, but thus far it's not been an issue.
So overall? 'Easy'. The year is off to a good start, and for consumers I think it looks particularly good. Both 2005 and 2006 were challenging years. The kind that took hard work in the vineyards and separates the good growers and winemakers from the average. Maybe a little like 2003 in Bordeaux, where some made great wines, and some struggled.
2007 is off to a start like 2000 Bordeaux, the kind of vintage that lifts everyone and makes the average good, and the good great. BUT, the real work and risk is ahead. There's a long summer to get through, and the Fall is always key to quality.

(Also posted on Wine Spectator Forums)

Visit to San Martin

Last summer we got a call from a family south of San Jose in the small town of San Martin. They grow walnuts there, and a few years ago planted about 200 Syrah and Grenache vines. The vines were in trouble and they didn't know what was wrong.

We went down to take a look and found that Powdery Mildew was the main problem. The vineyard was actually in pretty good shape. Most of the time we get a call like that we find a vineyard that has not been properly pruned, suckered and tied up. In those cases the damage to the vine is severe. Grapes are wild aggressive plants, and with improper care, they will grow like a weed. If the trunk and canes have not been kept in shape by suckering, pruning and tying up, it takes three years to restore them. The same amount of time to start over with new plants.

Their experience with the walnut orchard though had served them well. The pruning was good, the trunks suckered and strong, and the plants trained properly. They had just made a few small mistakes. They had watered too much and the vines had gotten to vigorous. It's very common for people to think vines need more water than they really do.

That vigor had created an environment that let Powdery Mildew thrive and they were not sure what, how and when to spray. That's the other common mistake people can make. It was too late to save the grape crop. Once mildew spreads to the grapes, they will never get ripe enough to make wine. They make look ripe, but the mildew prevents sugar development and stunts all flavor.

As we explained all this too them last year the entire family came out to take notes, ask questions and learn all they could. I really enjoyed our time with them. Their enthusiasm to learn was really fun.

This year they followed the watering and spraying schedule I left them with. Calling just once to track down a Powdery Mildew spray I recommended to stop the active spores left from last season.

A few weeks ago though they emailed worried about the vines. They looked 'wild and out of control', and they worried about mildew again. I made sure they didn't do anything right away. Doing anything while the plants flower in late May will ruin the crop, so I assured them: "wait, and we'll be out in a few weeks."

This morning we headed down and spent a few hours with them again. The vines were doing well, still full of vigor so they had gotten very bushy. Stef and I showed them how to thin the shoots, and remove laterals, then tie the vines into the trellis. We worked half a row with them until they had it down, and left them working away. They were happy that the wild vines now looked like the well tended vineyards they had just seen in Paso Robles.

Going down and visiting with them is a trip Stef and I both enjoy. A friendly family, full of cheer and enthusiasm about growing grapes and making wine is a trip that is a lot of fun for us. We'll go back in a month or so and check on them, and I'm sure their little vineyard will be doing great.

2005 Loring Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard

A tasting note? Yeah why not. We had this wine last night with some fresh Salmon and angle hair pasta. The wine had bright cherry flavors. Ripe cherry almost like a cherry soda, and the great silky feel of fine Pinot Noir. It added spicy notes on the finish.

I thought this was the best wine I've ever had from Brian Loring. It was unique to itself. Any attempt to say it tasted like some type of Burgundy would not be accurate. It tasted like a wine from California. But not in the way many are critical of California Pinot Noir, even calling the thick, sweet over-extracted style -Pinot-Zinoir.

This wine was all Pinot Noir, silky, fresh, fruity and spicy, but there was no mistaking it was from California. A great wine, reflecting the effort of Peter Cargasacchi the grower, and Brian Loring the winemaker.

And Brian has been a hero-role model for me for many years. I've followed many of the things he's done. From customer service, to mailing list policies, vineyard sourcing, and probably most importantly, watching how Brian was able to run his wine company and keep his full time high tech job. Next year I think I'll even be switching to his policy of including shipping prices in the price of his wine.

Many people in the wine industry have told me, it's very hard to be both a great business man, and a great winemaker. Drinking Brian's wine last night, was great inspiration and proof, that you can do both.

Flowering

Grape vines, at least those used for wine, are self pollinating. They don't need bees, or birds or any outside help to flower. The flower simply opens up and drops it's pollen on to the seed below. The flowers are tiny, less than 1mm across. The pollinated flowers become the individual grapes in each cluster.

So the success of flowering is very big in determining how big your crop will be each year. The best thing you can do as a farmer to help is -- Nothing. The flowers are so small that it's very easy for the pollen to 'miss' and you end up with a grape pod that won't turn into a grape. These are called 'shot berries'. If you get a lot of shot berries this is called 'shatter'. In that case you end up with a cluster with just a few grapes on it.

So when flowering starts, you want to stop doing anything to the plant. No trimming, no spraying, no shaking the plant in any way. You also hope the wind stays calm, as high wind will cause the pollen to miss, and leads to shatter. Rain or hail is the very worst, it will release the pollen and wash it away.

We've just started to see flowering. So far the weather has been very good, and I've stayed out of the vineyard. I'll have to cut my work back now to things that won't disturb the plants. When flowering is over, we call this 'set'. That means the clusters have set their good berries and the grapes will mature through the summer. Once we have set, I'll return to the vineyards.